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Post by JEFF on Feb 5, 2018 23:57:45 GMT
Sorry to hear that, Alex. Please don't bin it. Give it a rest and come back to it.
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alexb
Glue slinger 
Posts: 691
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Post by alexb on Feb 6, 2018 18:17:00 GMT
What happened was, I had gone in and tried to clean up that front some more, from the inside, to make the gun fit better. Where I had cut the upper hull off, it needed cleaning up so it would fit. I was cleaning the edges and test fitting...I had done this countless times during the build to see if the ammo cases cleared, test layout, etc. It was a bit warped before...I knew that and it was workable. I was test fitting and it just shattered when I popped it into place and clamped it. It was a mistake on my part. I should have finished up the front before trying to clamp it. I've had to rethink the plan...again. I'll work up some templates and test out a few things today. The general idea is to rebuild the front as a flat paneled Sherman. It should give it an interesting contrast between the flat straight lines of the front and the curved edges of the rear. I might raise the height of the fighting compartment. As it was, the gunner was sitting on the floor and the loader would have been working while kneeling. Thanks to a quick use of Paint, this is what I am thinking about going with. It sort of has a M7 vibe to it.  I'll hit the bench in a bit, make a sacrifice to the model gods, and see what I can come up with.
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Post by Boots on Feb 6, 2018 18:21:55 GMT
Looks like ya got it in hand mate 
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NEMO
Plastic Connoisseur  
Scratcherist
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Post by NEMO on Feb 6, 2018 22:55:18 GMT
I think Vers 2.0 looks like a Stugman!  Seems like a sound plan fella 
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Post by JEFF on Feb 6, 2018 23:24:08 GMT
Yay. It lives. 
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alexb
Glue slinger 
Posts: 691
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Post by alexb on Feb 7, 2018 5:14:10 GMT
I had a good re-start...so let's get crackin'. I cleaned up the remains of the upper hull. The stowage rack (A) was okay. I did manage to save a small bit of the front (B), to use as a guide for the glacis plate's angle. The area above the bolt strip gets a good and careful clean-up later. I cut down the sides (C) to remove the cast curve. I left the vertical flat sides there to keep the upper hull square when I mount it. I plan on cutting them off when I add the sides. And (D) would break right after I took this picture.  Now for the lower hull. Out with the old interior floor and rear wall. If I'm going to do this, I'm going to do this right. What am I doing? We're going topless with this one so we get to see all the interior bits.  So time to build a new floor...well not really. I'm going to cheat and use the floor panels from the Italeri M32(a1) kit. The M32(a1) kit is something I picked up ages ago for next to nothing. It's missing a few parts, so I bought it for the recovery boom and parts. The floor is perfect for what I need it for and no tripping over the exposed driveshaft or risk of getting your laces caught on it.  A bit of cardboard stock and I worked out the sides (A) & (B). I angled the rear sections. I think it looks better than the top being straight. I used .075mm styrene sheet...which scales out to an inch. It's a little thin but I'll probably keep it...unless I booger up the sides and have to cut new ones. Then I'll go with 1mm thick. I'll probably provide spars for a canvas top to cover the entire top. The front is also thin but but I'll probably thicken it up by adding a second layer of styrene or adding applique armor to the front. I already mentioned I was going open-top. But I will add a small roof section (C) to cover the driver and gunner. Another casualty (D)...this time a roadwheel. I've knocked half of these off during this build and expect to knock the rest off before it's over. I decided to not put them back on until I'm done. I was going to note that I planned on removing the rear fold-down rack (E), but I might keep it just for fuel cans.  Since I am going open fighting compartment I'll do a driver's spot (A). I won't worry about the trans. Once the gun mount is added it should block all of that...at least using a M7 Priest as an example. If worse comes to worse, I have a M36 kit with a trans that I can use as a model to scratch one with. I thought about mounting the radio under here (B) but will probably cut down the sides and front a little. Ignore (C) for this picture...it's addressed in the next picture. Yeah I went overboard on the arrows when I resized these...seemed like a good idea at the time.  These (A) will be removed. I'm tempted to leave the parts that will be covered by the ammo storage. It would help strengthen the side support. I plan on remaking the ammo storage cases. The rear one (B) might be lower in height but with a ready-rack on top. I'm also thinking about possible separate storage for WP and smoke rounds. The forward ammo storage (C) will be reworked. I like how they sit up there. And the floor (D). Yep, definitely went overboard with the arrows....  ...so no arrows on this one. The rear wall was scratched in. It still needs a bit of detailing and some trimwork to fill in those gaps. I'll probably place a rack for some M1 rifles and maybe a sling for a Thompson.  Anyway, except for arrow-overkill, things are going good. I'm in a lot better mood abut this build than I was 24 hours ago. I think it will be better and I won't need Oompa Loompas to fill out the crew. I'll start on the driver's station tomorrow and I'm probably going to lower the front and side plates a bit.
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Post by JEFF on Feb 7, 2018 9:52:18 GMT
Go, Alex, go. 
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Post by Ian H. on Feb 10, 2018 14:59:57 GMT
Alex, that is really great work. You are making me want to build a hypothetical project. Very inspirational.
Best wishes,
Ian
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Post by Snipersmudge on Feb 10, 2018 17:25:41 GMT
very interesting stuff and nice work 
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Post by Boots on Feb 10, 2018 22:10:16 GMT
Great bit of cutting and white work there Alex 
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alexb
Glue slinger 
Posts: 691
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Post by alexb on Feb 15, 2018 18:06:42 GMT
Update....an arrow-less one. I scratched up a trans and front final-drive cover-doohickie. I based it on the one from an Academy M7 Priest. I tried a coupel of cylindrical designs for te trans...most were not very pretty. I ended up using the small fuel tanks from a T34. They lack some of the detail, but given that most of it will be covered...it's good enough for gov't work. I made a mount but didn't like it. It either looked too beefy or too flimsy. I ended up using something from the spares and made it work. I mounted the gun and will dress it up a bit....and give it a sight. There's no plans for a coax though. I scratched a base but didn't like it. It looked pretty rough so I changed it out for a much cleaner one.  I painted the trans Tamiya Olive Drab. I am not a fan of Tamiya's OD...I think it's way too dark. I used drybrushings of Testors OD and Faded OD to pick out detail...and lighten it up a bit. The seat came from the spares. The control sticks were made from stretched sprue. The instrument cluster is from a M113 and is there for mock-up.  Finished gun assembly. Added sight, traverse/elevation controls.  And mounted. I went a bit off-center to accommodate the driver.  Now for the interior of the front. I used strips to frame the gun opening. And I scratched a simple driver's view port. I added what could be inferred to be a mechanism for an external armored flap that can be raised and lowered as needed. That'll probably be next update.  Test fitted. I need to cut off the original kit hull sides and expect some adjustments to get the upper hull to sit right. The gunner will sit behind the driver. The commander behind him. I have seats planned for them. The loader has the most elbow room.  Speaking of...gunner and commander's seats...both assembled but waiting some detail work. The radio is from Tamiya's M4...you can't see it so I left it off in a miraculous bit of premonition. I found these storage boxes in the stash. They were perfect so I used them for ammo bins. The ends of the rounds are strene punchouts. In the back, there's the gun sporting a different mantlet. The narrow early one I was going to use didn't infer any ability to traverse. This larger one does. I might need to alter it slightly, make it more circular.  Added the top parts of the front of the upper hull. Mocked-up, it was a little low so I added a section to give the crew some additional protection. The nubs are mounts for a .50 cal and a .30 cal. Added some strips to the top edge. Painted the interior Tammy OD.   It's coming together and I'm pleased with it. Next update should wrap-up assembly. No arrows were harmed in the making of this build update.
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Post by JEFF on Feb 17, 2018 9:02:45 GMT
Man oh Man. 
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Post by Paul B on Feb 17, 2018 15:25:18 GMT
I'm liking this one for sure Alex 
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alexb
Glue slinger 
Posts: 691
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Post by alexb on Feb 18, 2018 0:03:23 GMT
Thanks. I'm headed down the back-straight on this one...at least as far as the build part of it goes. I'm thinking about adding a soft top. Alot of open-top vehicles had them. And by "thinking about" I mean I'll probably add it and keep it unless it doesn't look right...in which I shall declare I changed my mind.
I'm thinking color scheme. The obvious is Olive Drab. OD with khaki is another option. The third is a winter scheme. I figure this thing is essentially a tracked AT gun, with thin armor. It would be an ambush fighter...pop off a couple rounds and run like a scalded dog. Even with add-on armor it wouldn't want to try to slug it out with any opposing tank.
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Post by Snipersmudge on Feb 18, 2018 7:42:17 GMT
very nice work 
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Post by JEFF on Feb 18, 2018 9:11:50 GMT
Sounds like you've got the bases covered, Dude. 
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alexb
Glue slinger 
Posts: 691
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Post by alexb on Feb 23, 2018 19:52:01 GMT
Back to work...Lots of new bits added. I sort of pressed on through this part of the build while my camera's battery pack was recharging. I've been using anew camera for the past few months so my pictures seem to be coming out a good deal better. I mounted the upper hull. I decided to give it some add-on armor plating. For the transmission, I used a piece of armor from an old Dragon Easy-Eight kit. I rationalized that they'd need access to the trans for maintenance so I used this armor because it could be removed. For the upper front and sides I had their add-on plates welded on. I sanded the edges at an angle to try to get them to stand out more and give the edges texture. The front driver's visor was added. Lights and lift rings were placed on the welded armor sections. The soft top fram arms were added, as were the mount loops. And tracks are the duckbill types. I had these from the Tamiya M4a3.     And the top. I used tissue paper, white glue, and wood glue. I use wood glue because it tends to dry harder. The top was designed to extend to the rear of the fighting compartment, though most crews only used it like this when it was raining or snowing. And since this SPG tended to be an ambush hunter the crews would often throw branches and other foliage on top. The excess top was rolled up but I somehow positioned it on top, as opposed to underneath. As an aside, the grey stryrene are temporary bracing for the top frame.  Masked off the fighting compartment and painted it. I used Testors Olive Drab.  Paint dried, I dry-brushed it. Decals came from the Decals Spares Box...there actually for a M3 Halftrack. I thought about some spiffy markings but decided to keep it simple and low-visual. That also means overall OD, no fancy camo scheme. And, I ditched the soft-top. I think it looks sleeker without it. With the machineguns, I could only lower it so much. I added a tarp to the stowage to infer it had a soft top. The top mounts were altered to be tie-downs. Antenna mount was moved back to the rear. Stowage came from the spares. The fill it out I made a couple of boxy pieces and put a tissue/glue tarp over it. To stand out, I used Testors Japanese Imperial Green. It's dark and it dries glossy. Once dusted, it looks like a rubberized tarp.        And she's done. All in all, I enjoyed the build.
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Post by JEFF on Feb 23, 2018 21:00:29 GMT
So did I Alex. Thanks for not chucking it. 
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CarlRF
Plastic Connoisseur  
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Post by CarlRF on Mar 5, 2018 20:27:57 GMT
Wow ! The paint and weathering really made a difference . 
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