karih
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Post by karih on Mar 17, 2022 18:36:36 GMT
Hi all, After having more than 40 years pit stop with my modelling, I decided to have another try. Originally the idea was to build 1/350th Tamiya "Musashi" but since this was to be my first model with photo etched parts (there were not any available during 70s, at least in Finland), I thought that a "simpler" model would be more appropriate. So I purchased Trumpeter's "Jeremiah O'Brien" with a PE set from Eduard. After a couple of PE parts, I started really to understand why more experienced modellers emphasize the importance of PATIENCE  ! I mean come on guys, how do you handle these small pieces (the one in the picture was not even the smallest one)! Any useful tips? I have a bending tool from RB Productions which I am not impressed with (too much flex in the components making it difficult to reach accurate bending). Another issue for the hull fouling: any good suggestions on how to make realistic hull fouling (below the waterline)? I assume that these WW2 cargo ships did not get much maintenance during the action. Thanks in advance! Kari
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Post by Boots on Mar 17, 2022 21:45:47 GMT
Holy moly........you`ve asked the wrong person here fella..........this is my idea of hell and the reason i avoid it,don`t mind bigger stuff but not my idea of fun on the tiny stuff  However....there are a few guys that are masters of the etch and i`m sure some-one will drop by with all the answers  As for the hull weathering.....the grains would be quite fine and maybe very fine play sand sprinkled over patches of strategically placed glue PVA or TETC etc and then sealed in, once paint layers and weathering are applied they should just be subtle enough to give the desired effect, maybe try it on a scrap piece first and see what you think.......or....there are probably AM products out there specifically for it. Again this is not my area of expertise and some-one may suggest alternatives. HTH |
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Post by tommygunn on Mar 18, 2022 6:26:54 GMT
I’d like to help you out but, oh no. Those bits are minute.
I remember some PE for a 1/48 Tamiya Tiger. Most I didn’t even bother with, they were just too small.
Some high magnification glasses would help. Good luck with it.
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Post by Paul B on Mar 18, 2022 8:52:10 GMT
Hi there Kari, that is a very interesting subject. Also this is a question that has never been asked here before. The only thing I can think off would be something along the lines of very fine sand. Something like VMS Hull Tex www.vms-supplies.com/vms-hull-tex-air . For a fixing agent I would use a gloss or matt coat. If you can't get the VMS stuff, then consider using chinchilla sand which can be found in pet shops. I hope this helps and good luck with project. |
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Post by Robbo on Mar 18, 2022 13:40:26 GMT
I do love a ship build so I'll be tuning in |
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Post by Ian H. on Mar 20, 2022 18:02:28 GMT
Looking forward to this build! I am not very experienced with PE either as a recent USS North Carolina build was the first time I had used a large PE set, especially on a maritime subject. I will say a PE bender that you are happy with is a must along with good optical aids such as an opti-visor or jeweler's magnifiers.
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karih
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Post by karih on Apr 4, 2022 18:20:56 GMT
Thanks all for your tips! I guess I have to follow advice from Boots and make some test samples to find out which method works best. I also noticed that with all these small parts, I need to get better organized, so I prepared a small work station. Not goint to win any beauty contests but it works. I also purchased a better PE bender and that is a great help.  |
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Post by SteveM on Apr 4, 2022 19:11:40 GMT
Into the deep end after 40 years! 1\350 and PE  I've not ha much bench time recently but when I do work PE I use a pair of flat faced square jaw pliers for small parts. You can hold and bend them without having to move them to a bending tool Meng and Tamiya make them if you want a brand name but I found mine on RS Components for £10. Nice work so far BTW  |
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bwilt
Plastic connoissuer
restarted this hobby after 40+ years.... still nice!
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Post by bwilt on Apr 4, 2022 19:11:58 GMT
Now that is a very tidy working place, beautiful!
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karih
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Post by karih on Apr 5, 2022 13:34:06 GMT
Another question regarding the PE: when bending them I noticed that they are very brittle straight from the box. So I found out an article which suggested annealing the parts before using them and I noticed that they actually became more ductile and easier to handle. Does anyone know if there are any drawbacks with this (glueing/painting?). I use my camping cooker which is a bit too forceful but it seems to work if you are careful.
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Post by Paul B on Apr 5, 2022 14:01:40 GMT
Be careful with the heat Kari, it can destroy the PE very easily, specially on finer parts. I have never had any issues with painting heat treated etch, in fact the paint sticks better if you do anneal the metal |
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karih
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Post by karih on Apr 5, 2022 16:37:15 GMT
Be careful with the heat Kari, it can destroy the PE very easily, specially on finer parts. I have never had any issues with painting heat treated etch, in fact the paint sticks better if you do anneal the metal  Thanks Paul for the warning. I noticed that one needs to be very careful. Thankfully, Eduard has included some extra pieces... |
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Post by Boots on Apr 5, 2022 19:49:09 GMT
Same from me really fella, never had any paint issues with heated etch but like Paul say`s......just be aware of to much heat  . i actually keep a few tea-light candles for bending plastic rod and also annealing (on the rare occasions i`ve ever needed to anneal etch  ).....i simply pass it gently thru the flame using an old pair of tweezers |
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karih
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Post by karih on Apr 6, 2022 8:01:57 GMT
Same from me really fella, never had any paint issues with heated etch but like Paul say`s......just be aware of to much heat . i actually keep a few tea-light candles for bending plastic rod and also annealing (on the rare occasions i`ve ever needed to anneal etch ).....i simply pass it gently thru the flame using an old pair of tweezers Thanks Boots for the tip! Sounds safer than my camping cooker  |
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Post by Boots on Apr 6, 2022 18:07:40 GMT
It`s a little bit more controlled......and probably cheaper than camping gas Karih |
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Post by Boots on Apr 6, 2022 18:18:10 GMT
.........forgot to say, that workstation looks the bizz......nice job!! |
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Post by Ian H. on Apr 9, 2022 19:38:37 GMT
Work station looks great!
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karih
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Post by karih on Apr 28, 2022 15:25:47 GMT
Hi all, Work continous, but very slowly since I have spent a lot of time studying Liberty photos and working methods in the web. Great tool, we did not have that kind of help during 1970s! Anyhow, two photos of the PE work in progress. Has been really painful: several parts disappeared/destroyed ! But honestly that was what I expected...   |
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Post by Paul B on Apr 28, 2022 15:45:52 GMT
Kari, working with etch is always a pain, no matter which scale . This however, looks absolutely amazing, well done Sir  |
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Post by armorguy on Apr 28, 2022 15:57:56 GMT
Top class pe job fella.
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! I mean come on guys, how do you handle these small pieces (the one in the picture was not even the smallest one)! Any useful tips? I have a bending tool from RB Productions which I am not impressed with (too much flex in the components making it difficult to reach accurate bending).
. i actually keep a few tea-light candles for bending plastic rod and also annealing (on the rare occasions i`ve ever needed to anneal etch 
).....i simply pass it gently thru the flame using an old pair of tweezers 
